Whatever your situation, DrywallMachines Contractors can provide an adequate solution. We can advise you on whether internal wall insulation would be suitable for your building and what methods and materials should be employed. If you are interested, we can site assessment and quotation. We guarantee the best possible finish for your home and re-fit all accessories and fittings after plastering is completed ie. skirting and window boards, curtain rails, pictures etc
Before starting the dry lining installation process, always be very careful when choosing the right plasterboard, bearing in mind that these are available in different thicknesses, sizes and lengths. The plasterboard you opt for must correspond to the stud centers. On the other hand, always consider the place it is going to be fitted, since more humid areas or those more susceptible to water penetration and moisture will involve using moisture resistant plasterboards, which will probably be the best option for your bathroom or kitchen. Also know that dry lining (or creating!) a curved wall for example may involve using thinner plasterboards or if applicable regulation fire rating requires a plasterboard of certain width, try using two thinner plasterboards, rather than only one meeting the requirements.
Dry lining in progress
If you are fixing dry lining to timber or metal frames, this can be done by either tacking, which involves using nails or by screwing which involves using screw fixings, which are, to our humble opinion a better option, since they offer a more stabile support for the plasterboard. Know that dry lining can also be applied to timber ceilings, just like it is fitted onto timber stud walls, of course recognizing some differences inherent to these surfaces, usually involving the fact that plasterboards tend to be massive and heavy, so, since the dry lining process will include lifting up the board to the ceiling, better opt for smaller, lighter boards. Also proper placement of a few fixings will hold the plasterboard in place and ease your work, enabling you to rest your arms when installing.
After choosing the right plasterboard and performing the needed measurements and cuttings, it’s time to get on with the work and fit the plasterboard onto your timber wall. We advise that you start from the edges in, since starting from the middle of the wall may cause additional problems and unnecessary cuts, if the plasterboard is not plumb. The plasterboard can be fixed to the wall by tacking the nails (preferably 40mm nails) or using screws to tighten the board to the wall (preferably 25mm long). First fixings should be tacked from the centre outwards and not too much apart (there are usually evenly spaced fixing marks on the face of the board), since these will hold the board and allow you to carry on with your work – place them too far apart and you will constantly have to hold the board. The rest of the boards should be fixed 200 mm (when using screws) or 150 mm (when using nails) around the stud. When placing the fixing, make sure not to go too far, since this might damage the paper envelope.
Dry lining essential tools
When dry lining a masonry wall, the technique used is the so called “dot and dab” and is usually a bit more complex than dry lining a timber wall. It involves using a drywall adhesive which is applied to the wall with a trowel when the plasterboard is tamped back onto the adhesive dabs and checked horizontally and vertically using a level for the perfect alignment.
Knowing basic dry wall methods and materials is important due to their advantages and benefices including the eco-friendly manufacturing process, flexibility, easy transportation and installation, space saving and thermal insulation performance.
